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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.